This is a true glossy lacquer finish that I use on nearly all of my turnings. It can be used either “as is”, as a wood grain sealer, or as a base for a Tung-varnish-turpentine blend. Yes, they are all compatible, and everything is available at the local Home Depot, Ace Hardware, Lowe's, etc. The finish is described as being applied while the wood is still in the lathe, but it can also be applied on the bench, but we will have to rub harder and faster.
Deft was used for the original article because it was the only brushing lacquer available at the time. Others are now available, including an excellent lacquer by Watco.
Three Secrets To The Deft® Finish
The 1st Secret -
There is no such thing as a “quick finish”.
This one is no exception. While the Deft® lacquer is quickly applied, the surface sanding and preparation will take a considerable amount of time.
The 2nd Secret -
Sanding is inportant. The more we sand, the more we need to sand.
As the surface becomes smoother, the smaller the scratches and blemishes that we can see.
The 3rd Secret -
The entire surface must have the same preparation and finish.
Once a sanding and finishing sequence has been established, all of the steps must be repeated whenever we go back to a coarser grit to make a surface repair. If any steps in the sequence are skipped, that area will stand out after the final finish is applied because its texture and absorbency are different. There is no finish that will accent these surface differences as much as Lacquer.
Step 1
Thoroughly sand all surfaces using any combination of power and hand sanding. Don’t skip any grits, and don't stop bfore reaching 320-grit. Please refer to the "5 Rules of Sanding" for help with this step. Then, with the lathe off, hand sand with either 320 or 400 grit to remove any remaining sanding scratches from the coarser grits.
Step 2
Apply and leave a heavy coat of Watco Liquid Finishing Wax to accent and slightly raise the grain. It also accents any surface flaws.
NOTE:
Any good quality paste wax will do the same thing. I just think the Watco Liquid Wax does it better.
Step 3
Hand-sand with 400-grit wet/dry, with the lathe OFF, while the wax is still wet. Wipe the surface clean. Continue rubbing until any residual wax has dried. Running the lathe helps.
Step 4
With the lathe at 500RPM; burnish the surface with a piece of grocery bag paper.
Wait for the wax to dry before going to Step 5.
Step 5
With the lathe OFF; apply a full sloppy coat of Deft® semi-gloss lacquer. I use a soft artists mop-brush and sometimes a paper towel. I prefer the semi-gloss because it leaves the wood with a more natural looking appearance, and its solids seem to act as a fine grain filler. If you want a higher gloss, use the Deft® Gloss lacquer. If this will be a base coat under another finish, it doesn't make any difference.
Step 6
Wait about one (1) minute, rotating the lathe occasionally by hand. Then remove all of the Deft® with soft paper towels, changing as they become wet and sticky. If the surface starts to dry, dampen a towel with some thinner and continue rubbing. Then give it a final wiping with a clean paper towel. I prefer to use Viva brand paper towels, but get Bounty when it is cheaper.
Step 7
With the lathe running at 500-700 RPM; burnish the surface with a clean paper towel. Generating a little heat helps melt and flow the lacquer onto the surface. The finish will now be dry.
Then, with the lathe OFF, lightly buff the surface with a gray ScotchBrite® pad, fine Bronze Wool, or 0000-steel wool to remove any traces of dried lacquer and circular marks from the surface. I prefer to use Bronze Wool because it cuts better, leaves a smooth scratch-free finish, doesn’t stain light colored woods, and is totally oil-free.
If this will be the final finish, we can apply a second coat by repeating Steps 5 through 7. Just don’t wait before wiping the surface in Step 6.
Remove from the lathe, and let it sit overnight befor going to the next step.
Step 8
Polish the surface with the Beall buffing wheels. There clones that work as well, but I have always preferred the original that are made by Jerry Beall and sold in all of the woodturning catalogs and Woodcraft retail stores. The stiched wheels from the various hardware type stores will also work, but they are a harder wheel, and extreme care must be taken so prevent the from grabbing the wood or going through the finish into the bare wood.
Use both the Tripoli and White Diamond wheels, and follow with the Carnauba wax.
There is more information on using the buffing wheels HERE
