"The Basics"
Gluing the brass tubes into the wood

The wood has been drilled and we are now ready to glue the brass tubes into the holes. This page will describe that process.

"About The Glue"
There are a lot of options for gluing the brass tubes into the pen blanks - epoxy, CA glue, Polyurethane glue, and probably something that I have left out that someone is using.

I have chosen to use Polyurethane glue because it expands into a foamy material that is slightly elastic and will allow for movement of the wood in the thin pen barrel. The CA's and Epoxies are much more brittle and there is a greater possibility that the pen barrel will crack during changes in humidity.  When I was using other glues, I had come to expect some level of complaints from customers. Since switching to the Polyurethane glue, there have been "Zero" complaints about cracking wood.

We have already drilled a slightly oversized hole in the pen blank to accomodate the foaming of the  Polyurethane glue.

The only problems with using a Polyurethane Glue is that it is difficult to clean up after using it, and it must be left to cure overnight.
The tools and supplies we will need for gluing the brass tubes into the wood.

The glue is the "Pro-Bond" because it lasts longer after the seal has been broken on the bottle.

The cup is filled with water.

The sandpaper is 120-grit.
Put one end of the brass tube into the drill chuck and tighten "gently" with just enough pressure to keep the tube from spinning in the chuck jaws.
Run the drill while holding a small piece of 120-grit sandpaper around the tube.

Then swap ends and do it to the other end.
Dip the Q-tip into the water and then run it through the drilled hole in the wood. Polyurethane glue cures faster and stronger when there is some moisture in the wood.
Apply the glue to the lower half of the sanded tube. Experience will tell us the correct amount of glue to use. I would suggest three (3) thin lines around the tube as a place to start.

Rubber gloves are recommended .
Twist the tube back and forth, wiggle it about,  and make plunging strokes, all at the same time while slowly moving the tube deeper into the hole. Continue this action until anout 3/4 of the tube length has been worked into the hole.


Pull the tube out of the hole and insert it into the other end of the pen blank using the same twisting, push-pull, wiggling, and plunging action. Add a little more glue if there isn't enough to finish coating the inside of the hole.

Then push the tube on into the hole, and about 1/16" below the wood surface. Another brass  tube makes a good pusher.
Place the completed tube on a piece of waxed paper. The glue can foam out and stick to everything in sight.

The foaming of the glue can also push the tube out of the hole. Check on the blanks after a couple hours. If there are any tubes sticking out of the wood, push them back into place. 

Wait until the next day.
The next step is End Trimming
Return to "Woodturning Stuff"
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- The "Slim-Line" Pen
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