The pages in this Section will describe how I make this most basic of pens. We will refer back to these pages during the discussion of the "Russ-Line", "Fat-Line", and "Long-Line" pens.
This is the "Slim-Line" pen. This one is assembled from the parts kit sold by Hut Products
Insert the mandrel into the lathe spindle.
Run the lathe and check that it is running "true" and without any wobble, as described in the Introduction - Mandrels
Do this every time you put the mandrel in the lathe.
Slide the bushings and the wood onto the mandrel. Line up the blanks so the wood is matched.
I use a total of five (5) bushings, 2 at the lathe spindle to give some additional space for the lathe tools while turning, one between the blanks, and I use 2 at the tail stock end of the mandrel to keep from hitting the brass nut with the tool.
DO NO tighten the nut at this time. The force to tighten the nut could bend the mandrel.
Bring up the tail-center, and tighten it into the end of the mandrel. Do not "over tighten". This could force a bend into the thin mandrel rod. "Right" tight is just enough that the center point in the tailstock doersn't slip when the lathe is running.
Tighten the mandrel nut with a pair of pliers. More pressure is required on the wood than I can get with my fingers on the knurled surface of the brass nut.
Adjust the height of the tool rest.
Then sight down on the forward edge of the rest and line it up with the lathe bed. An "eye ball" adjustment is close enough.
Use the gouge to reduce the blanks to round.
Now is the time to practice making straight pen barrels. Always remember the A-B-C's of spindle turning.
A -- Anchor the tool to the top of the tool rest, with the forefinger of the lefthand riding against the tool rest.
B -- Bevel, ride the bevel of the tool on the wood.
C -- Cut, raise the tool handle until the tool starts a cut.
Then slide the tool along the top of the tool rest with a body motion while maintaining the same position with your hands on the tool. If this technique is used correctly, we will be rewarded with a straight pen barrel.
Then reduce the other blank to round.
Reverse the tool rest if it is difficult to use the sloped surface of the rest as a guide. This gives a vertical surface for the Left Forefinger to ride against and guide the tool.
The diameter of the turned pen pen should be 1/64" larger than that of the bushings. Leave more than this if the wood is turned very rough or not very straight.
A common problem for beginning pen turners is that the wood is turned too small. Then the finished pen barrels will be smaller than the metallic parts of the pen. It is better for the finished wood to be slightly larger. It is better to leave the wood too large with the tool and remove the last little bit with the sandpaper.
Use these yellow buttons to go to other Sections of "Making A Pen"
STOP!
Inspect the wood surface for voids, cracks, torn grain, and other defects that could ruin the appearance of the completed pen. I fill voids and cracks as described on the next page, "Repairing Cracks and Voids"
Torn grain will require going back to the beginning of our sanding and starting over again. If there isn't enough wood to remove the torn grain, we can either fill it, or ignore it and leave more wood on the barrels the next time we turn a pair of them.
Our sample pen barrels didn't require repairs. That is one of the benefits of using a wood like "Pacific Yew".
