There are many options for putting a finish on the watch. We could leave it "as-is" ; go through ultra-fine polishing grits with Micro-Mesh or Rottenstone; or use a friction polish, varnish, oil, shellac, or Carnauba wax. I have a preferrence for dewaxed shellac because of its high gloss and resistance to body oils and handling. It is used with Mineral Oil as a lubricant and applied in the same manner as a commercial friction polish. The difference is that mine is mixed on the applicator pad, rather than in the bottle, and it containes no waxes or other oils. Please read my articles on "French Polish" and "Friction Polish". These are a part of my "Finishing Secrets" series on finishing turned wood.
The shellac is a 1-pound cut that has been dewaxed. I prefer the "Super Blonde" because of its lighter color.
The lubricant is Mineral Oil. I keep both in squeeze-bottle dispensers for convenience.
The applicator is a piece of new Velour towel that is about 1" wide and 5" long, and then folded in half with the "furry" side out. The velour doesn't have to be white, but it does have to be "NEW". Washing and drying hardens the ends of the cotton fibers,
and washing leaves a detergent residue that can cause problems with the finish.
Apply a thin line of Mineral Oil behind the area that is wetted with the shellac. If you pressed me for an amount, I would say 4 drops.
While running the lathe as somewhere between 1600 RPM and as fast as it will go, hold the applicator against the wood surface so that the band of oil is trailing behind the shellac. The "Secret" to getting a good finish is the name, "Friction Polish". Friction means "Heat". Use some pressure against the wood, and slowly move the applicator back and forth across the surface. As the shellac on the applicator starts to dry, it will get hot. The hotter the better, and if you can get it to smoke, that is even better yet. The smoke is the waxes and Mineral Oil
This is what it should look like when it is "finished".
Put a few drops of the shellac on the applicator. Use enough to "wet" the cloth, and that is about 1/2 teaspoon.
The new applicator will take more shellac than one that has been "broken in".
cooking off, leaving a thin polished coating of pure shellac on the wood. When it is working right, I have to use a cloth Bandaid to protect my finger from the heat.
Keep the applicator moving on the surface until the shellac on the pad is dry, and has formed a hard smooth mat on the surface of the cloth. This seamless polishing pad is the reason for using the Velour toweling.
